Love Letter to <4.2 Star Restaurants, esp Star Kabab.

So here I am, deep in the heart of Dhaka, Bangladesh. Where every street corner tells a story through its intoxicating aromas..

 It's a culinary journey that transcends taste; it's an immersive experience for all the senses. Bangladesh, a land where the food scene is not just a scene—it's a culinary escapade. From the rich, robust flavours of aubergine bhorta to the tantalising kick of a dried shrimp bhorta, the palette of sensations is endless. And that's just bhorta.

Star Kabab & Restaurant

I ventured into the heart of Dhaka University, where the humble street stalls became havens for students and young people to mingle, dishing out affordable 10/10 delights.

What I absolutely loved was the seamless experience of ordering exceptional food online in Dhaka. It's a city flooded with delivery services, a gastronomic oasis where you can satisfy not just local cravings but also indulge in Western comforts - which I did not.

And then there's the categorisation on food delivery apps—a lesson in understanding a culture through its culinary priorities. Fruits, snacks, powder & condensed milk, daily cooking essentials, edible oil, FISH, dried fish, ice cream. It's a snapshot of what matters to the people, a true anthropological dive into the culture. Maybe?

Haleem, Street Food

Enter Gulshan, Dhaka— where I spent a large portion of my time, especially in the evenings. My mission, as I couldn’t leave and wander around at night by myself? To conquer every culinary landmark in the vicinity—Al Kareen, Bhorta click, Jhal ghor, Govinda’s restaurant & sweets, Bhorta express, Nawabi restaurant, Mollah Bhorta House, Paturi Banani, Hello Dhaka, and others that I can’t remember right now but all rated less than 4.2 stars. But don’t let that put you off, and of course, the iconic Star Kabab & Restaurant for breakfast and lunch. Which this whole newsletter is actually about.

Fuchka, Street Food

Breakfast, my friends, is a serious affair in Bangladesh. No avo on toast for me because I’m not a basic bit- jokes, no, only because I make it best at home. Give me Roti canai and curry sauce from Malaysia or a hearty chicken pho from Hanoi. Breakfast should be an affair that hits you in the soul, not just the stomach. Not to get all Sufi on you (stay with me on this one) but breakfast should be more than just physical nourishment; it should be an experience that resonates emotionally and spiritually, engaging not only the stomach but your soul. Deep it. I mean if you’re on holiday especially.

My initiation into Bengali breakfast culture was a bit rocky. Breakfast here is not just a meal—it's an experience that's meant to be savoured. 

Cue the motorbike taxi to Star Kabab at the crack of dawn. It’s something like 7am, and you can just about see the sun through the white haze of Dhaka's pollution. The scene is alive—suits, workers, men in lungis, tuk-tuk drivers—all piling up outside of Star Kabab for a culinary pilgrimage. I secure a table for one, and the eager staff sets me up in a cosy corner. 

It’s the perfect spot to be people-watched and people watch. Camera obviously eats first, then I delve into the order—roti with chicken curry/soup, beef brain moshla, dhal, and a cup of sweet tea to wrap it up. My taste buds embark on a journey reminiscent of the hearty breakfasts my mum cooks up on Eid—a delicious rich beef curry with roti and shemai. You know in movies, there's that classic scene where the camera zooms out, and suddenly, we're transported into a flashback - that's what happened to me when I was delving into all that food. 

The chicken curry/soup, divine. The roti, well give me some more of that please?? The brain moshla, a tad too heavy on the spice, but fear not—that's what the roti is for. And that cup of tea? A strong, milky builder’s tea—a taste that transports me straight to the streets of London and my grandma’s actually. 

Bengali tea is different from Indian tea or what you know of it, and I think that has something to do with Calcutta being the capital of British India, and that must have had a lasting effect because the flavours are a lot lighter on the eastern side of India.

The only breakfast you need to try in BD

As I pay up, the guys at Star Kabab eagerly inquire about my verdict. 'Lovely, thank you,' I say, not wanting to reveal the flood of nostalgia it unleashed. Star Kabab remains the constant recommendation from everyone I meet, whether it be the owner of all these hotels, to the waiters at other restaurants, tuk-tuk drivers, it really seems to be everyone's favourite and I get it. 

Star Kabab—it's not just a culinary hotspot; it's a cultural anchor, weaving itself into the very fabric of Bangladeshi life. And though I'm not a native, it whisked me back to cherished memories with my family. Food consistently stands out as the most powerful link for those of us who were born in different places than our parents or grandparents. 

So, in the spirit of my travels, I pass the torch of recommendation. Go, immerse yourself in this culinary journey. Join me on my next trip to Bangladesh? You won't just eat; you'll experience. Trust me; you won't regret it. And as for me, Star Kabab unexpectedly became a nostalgic rendezvous. I just wanted to say rendezvous.

The track I’ll leave you with you with today is Sanson Ki Mala Pey by Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan.

Love,

Rez x