Korea, Kimchi, and Kismet: A holiday romance.

The concept of "inyeon" first caught my attention back in 2019.

There I was, wandering through the quiet nooks of South Korea, accompanied by my Korea boo, a fellow traveller whose path serendipitously crossed mine at the onset of our journey. Fate, karma, destiny—call it what you will—seemed to weave its invisible threads around us, a force we couldn't shake off, as the owner of a cosy B&B eloquently pointed out. This astute man couldn't help but notice the seamless energy between Sy and me. "What's your story?" he inquired, his eyes twinkling with curiosity. We exchanged anecdotes—tales of our recent encounter, which, though brief, felt like a timeless bond due to some of the crazy shared experiences we had. "Two weeks, you say?" he quipped, a smile tugging at his lips. "Looks more like two years to me." In that moment, he told us all about  "inyeon".

Me in Jeonju Hanok Village with the lads.

The significance of "inyeon" eluded me. But now, five years on, its essence resonates more than ever. Meeting Sy, although briefly, left an indelible imprint on my life, a ripple effect that continues to shape my journey, even in his absence. 

My friend is currently travelling around South Korea, and we talk every day, hi Meg. I couldn’t help but think and reminisce about the times I was there. It was a really special time and an extremely unique experience. Reflecting on my South Korean escapade, I'm struck by the unforeseen trajectory it took. Initially intending to stay for a mere three weeks, I found myself fully immersed, extending my visit to the entirety of my three-month visa. It all commenced with a chance encounter with that young man early in my trip—a connection that offered me a unique vantage point into the country and its rich culture. Alongside this serendipitous meeting, I forged deep bonds with a group of girls in Seoul. This dynamic somehow became both an escape from my everyday life and an integral part of it, offering me a genuine sense of belonging out there. 

It’s one of the few places I haven't pinned any restaurants, which is mad because I ate at least over 180 meals out. I found solace in the simplicity of wandering, capturing candid moments through the lens of my imperfect photographs and videos.

This was one of my favourite meals out there.

 It was nice wandering around, feeling tiny in the big world of South Korea. I relished the sensation of insignificance, humbled by the seamless integration into a society where one could seamlessly just - vanish. At some point in our lives, many of us have pondered the idea of packing up, switching off our phones, and simply disappearing. Well, that's precisely what transpired for three months. I felt disconnected and distant, yet strangely content.

For nearly three months, I navigated the country without a passport, awaiting its arrival from Her Majesty's Passport Office—a tale in itself for another day. I lost it but I also didn’t? The absence of Google Maps served as an invitation to rediscover the art of navigation, tracing routes through the labyrinthine streets. I think that’s also why I remember the trip so well. I remember when I got there; it was cold, but the air felt crisp, and I was cosy in all my layers. And that exorbitant cost of that first cup of coffee—I'm filled with a sense of tranquil anticipation, unaware of the transformative encounters that awaited, all before my encounter with Sy. I had no idea how pivotal that moment in my life was going to be. 

Sy opened the door to a realm I found deeply captivating, a world I really liked and was intrigued by. I love things that are so different from the world I grew up in, I have an affinity for it and South Korea could not be more different. 

We went to Busan together and picked a bunch of stuff from the fish market.

The culinary extravaganza he introduced me to, an uncharted territory of Korean cuisine, left an indelible mark on my palate. I actually became obsessed and continued to look for my favourite dishes when I got back to Australia, which is where I lived back then. 

Like many of my adventures, South Korea unfolded as a serendipitous discovery, its nuances revealed only upon arrival. Embracing the spontaneity of learning on the fly, I revelled in absorbing insights from locals. I also almost joined a cult, which is hilarious now but was a bit worrying at the time and actually quite stupid. 

It’s been about a month since I posted anything, and a lot of what I have written is in its 1st and 2nd draft, and for some reason, it didn’t feel right to either share or post it yet. I’ve been having a lot of deep reflections on my sabbatical in Africa and why some experiences impacted me so much. But I feel like I’m still looking for the words to explain those feelings.

We went to Jeju Island and got this famous seafood dish.

Meeting Sy for the first time: I asked Sy to meet me in Myeongdong. Myeongdong is the hub for all things beauty-related. It's the epicentre for face masks, anti-aging creams, makeup, and cute anime socks. It's always heaving with people. There we met up outside a cute department store because it’s near impossible to use Google Maps there. I picked this restaurant because I’d been there the day before and wanted his opinion on the food—it was legit and got Sy’s seal of approval. We ordered a bunch of stuff and shared. It was there we discussed our travel plans, and until then, I thought I was leaving in 2.5 weeks, and he asked to join my trip. And of course, I said yes.

We went to a South Korean hip-hop festival, which was so wholesome. People were sitting on the ground on cute picnic blankets and eating snacks, whilst listening to rap, and honestly, it was a vibe. I met the owner of PNB; I don’t know if she created choco pies, but hers were pretty famous out there—the iconic Jeonju dessert choco pie. Two rounds of nutty chocolate cake layers filled with strawberry jam, buttercream, and chocolate covering it. Our paths crossed at the PNB bakery in the Hanok village, where she graciously took me under her wing, whisking me away to explore her latest culinary ventures that evening. Mingling with this formidable boss lady, who exuded warmth and wisdom despite being 60 something, left an indelible mark on me—one I'll forever hold dear.

Mmmm choco pies!

After grasping the meaning of "inyeon," it became the connecting thread in many of my relationships. Oftentimes, I didn't immediately understand why I had crossed paths with certain individuals, but in hindsight, it all made sense. I don’t embark on journeys with expectations, yet I'm aware that my chosen route is unconventional compared to most. It was intriguing to hear from Sy's mum that I've ventured to places she hasn't even explored, affirming that I've truly travelled every corner of the country.

Sy and I went from two people who had just met to really enjoying each other's company, spending a lot of time together over the three months. We often travelled together, or he would give me a night or two to explore by myself, satisfying my itch for independence. It was a beautiful balance, one that, even now, feels like I navigated just right.

I remember around two months in, which in holiday romance terms is basically a year. We headed to the local grocery store for my first lesson in Korean army soup, Budae Jjigae. It felt like we were grabbing the most random things off the aisles: noodles, cooked rice, spam, gochujang, green onions, korean rice cakes, sausages, tofu, mushrooms—you name it. We chucked it all into a pan, and Sy would do this hilarious commentary over it. Surprisingly, it turned out to be delicious hangover food.

IYKYK

He also introduced me to Jjajangmyeon, a very popular Korean black bean noodle dish. We ate it a lot because it's cheap, and it was one of his favourite childhood dishes. Then, there was the time he took me for the best Korean fried chicken of my life— at his Korean mum's place. And, as I mentioned earlier, in holiday romance terms, we were already a year in, but to his mum, I was just a friend from England. That is, until I met his Palestinian father in America, and then we had to come up with a more solid story because we were acting like we’d known each other for ages.

How amazing is Korean BBQ, does anyone know of any good spots in Berlin? You’re not really meant to eat KBBQ by yourself but once I did because I was in Jeonju Hanok Village by myself and the people working there were so sweet, they were cutting up my food for me and showing me how to eat it properly. It was so cute! 

There were simply countless incredible meals to be had, and if you're a food enthusiast, then experiencing it firsthand is a must. I long for those moments, unsure of when I'll return, but certain that it's an experience etched permanently in my memory. From meeting Sy to encountering numerous remarkable individuals, savouring all those delicious meals, indulging in jjimjilbangs, encountering unexpected adventures - some dangerous but fun, my personal growth, and even my confidence—every part of it remains vivid in my memories. 

The track I’ll leave you with you with today is Juicy by The Notorious B.I.G.

Love,

Rez