Cape Malay food originates from the Cape Malay community in South Africa, particularly in the Western Cape region, including Cape Town. The term 'Cape Malay' refers to the descendants of Southeast Asian and Indonesian slaves to the Cape by the Dutch East India Company during the 17th and 18th centuries. The cuisine is a blend of flavours influenced by the food from Indonesia, Malaysia, India, and other Southeast Asian cultures. Some popular Cape Malay dishes include bobotie, samosas, and bredie. It reflects the diverse heritage of the Cape Malay community, incorporating a variety of spices, aromatic herbs, and cooking techniques.
I stayed in an area called Bo Kaap, a predominantly a Muslim area (the Cape Malays were also the first to bring over Islam to South Africa). I read a little bit about the area before deciding to stay there, I realised it was the best decision ever because I instantly felt the warmth of the people. Back in the day, the houses were all white, but over time, slaves and workers were allowed to buy their houses, and to show their liberation and freedom, they started painting the houses in different colours. It’s such a beautiful area.
I blended in as most people in the area are brown, so I was able to walk around without catching too much attention. I did the long walk up to the top of the hill to this beautiful Cape Malay restaurant called Bo Kaap Kombuis. It was so cute, a family-run restaurant. I asked the guy working there about the people in the pictures, and he said they were his parents, grandparents, and so forth. It was so interesting for me to see Muslim Cape Malay people just out here living life. They had this deep history and a beautiful tie to this area.
I got the boboti denning vleis tasting plate so I could try different things. It looked familiar but tasted really different — not like any South East Asian food I’ve ever had before and I’ve been to SEA quite a bit! The lamb gravy dish was extremely sweet, not spicy at all. It was very tamarindyyy. It was honestly quite alien to me, and I’m not sure what to compare it to. But I guess it kind of tastes like a Flemish beef stew that you’d have with some mash, and they actually do give you a bit of mash too. The roti was just like a classic Indian roti, so that was delicious; the boboti was like a spiced shepherd's pie — it was just so interesting. It was a very heavy meal, and then I obviously got dessert because I had to see what dessert was saying.
Again, so familiar but different. I had this doughnut soaked in syrup; it was quite good. This dense cake and custard situation, which is funny because I feel like custard is such a South Asian favourite. I always thought it was a me thing, but since moving around and every time I go to a South Asian grocer, there it is — that bright yellow custard. And a dessert made out of potato, so it’s soft and soaked in syrup again but it’s potato — so interesting.
I had a little chat with the family who run the place; they were so sweet and intrigued as to why I was travelling alone. We joked about how I look like I’m from CT. The ladies were all wearing these beautiful headscarves and were so sweet; they told me to come back whenever for a chat and tea.
Was it love at first bite? No, but was it a lovely vibe, the best restaurant views, the best service, not to mention SO interesting? YES. I would say go anyway and figure it out for yourself. A massive shoutout to the restaurant for their hospitality, the warmest community.
Today I’d like to leave you with this track Building Castles by Bawo.
Love,
Rez x
I recently met some friends from South Africa and they were reflected that the language in Malaysia has some common terms. I was taken by surprise. Like anything, there is a dark history to this as well it seems. The food looks great, definitely need to make it there. But the flights from Dubai are exorbitantly high and the journey too long. Hope to make it there the soonest.