A Place That Stands for Something: Harlem
I’ve got to back myself on this one— I love Harlem. There’s so much about it that resonates with me.
As someone who’s always appreciated the cultural richness of New York City, Harlem stands out in a way that’s impossible to ignore. It’s a place steeped in history, buzzing with art, music and community and it has this energy that feels both nostalgic and alive.
Thinking about the Harlem Renaissance, which took place in the 1920s and 1930s, you can’t ignore the cultural and intellectual explosion that happened there. It was a celebration of African-American creativity, with figures like Zora Neale Hurston and Duke Ellington at the heart of it. That era completely redefined how the world viewed Black identity and culture, especially in the West.
Harlem was also the birthplace of legendary jazz clubs like the Cotton Club and the Apollo Theater, iconic venues that hosted legends such as Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, and Billie Holiday. These places made Harlem synonymous with innovation in jazz, blues and swing. I remember walking past the Apollo and just staring at it, thinking, Oh my god, it’s real. It’s so silly but NYC has that effect on you, doesn’t it? It creates this sense of awe, like history is right there in front of you, alive and tangible.
When I visited some of the jazz clubs, it was such a special experience. There’s this incredible sense of nostalgia—a connection to a time I wasn’t even alive for—but you can feel the history, the energy, and the grandness of it all. At one point, I was sitting at the bar alone when one of the musicians came up for a drink and sat next to me. He introduced himself, and I said, You were absolutely phenomenal up there. We laughed and chatted for a bit and it was such a simple interaction but it made my night complete you know?
Live music always has a way of making you feel deeply but in Harlem, it’s even more powerful because of the weight of its cultural legacy. It’s not just music; it’s history, pride, and storytelling all wrapped into one.
I’ve been to New York plenty of times over the years, I absolutely love it and want to move there, I’ve explored different neighbourhoods, I’ve stayed predominantly in Manhattan before but it was my first time taking a deep dive into Harlem like this. Places like Brooklyn still have their charm—trendy restaurants, a vibe that was once considered edgy—but something about it feels different now. In my opinion, parts of Brooklyn’s crossed a line. It’s so polished and curated that it’s lost some of the rawness people always used to rave about. That shift is what made me venture out and that’s how I ended up staying in Harlem.
I know what you’re thinking but I do know a thing or two about gentrification, especially being from East London, where we’ve seen it happen firsthand. And yeah, maybe it’s worse that I’m sitting here writing about how much I love Harlem. But let’s be honest—just because I’m saying this doesn’t mean I’m putting Harlem on the map. People have always been about Harlem. It’s always been a place of movement, migration, and innovation.
I’m constantly inspired by the fashion in Harlem too. I think it’s ridiculous to act like fashion can only be a thing in certain parts of NYC while overlooking Harlem. Legends like Dapper Dan revolutionised streetwear—blending luxury with hip-hop in a way that completely changed the game. And yes, I actually met him while I was there and of course, I was like damn what a guy.
But Dapper Dan and Harlem didn’t just influence the style of clothes; they transformed the way fashion and brands engage with culture. By collaborating with real, authentic people who represent a community or movement, brands gained credibility and relevance. This often happens with the Black community, which has long been at the forefront of trailblazing creativity. When Gucci partnered directly with Dapper Dan, it wasn’t just a collaboration—it was a recognition of how much influence Harlem and its creatives have had on the industry. In a way, that partnership makes Dapper Dan one of the first brand influencers, long before that was even a term.
I feel like brand partnerships in places like where I live in Berlin often lack real depth. They tend to chase the city’s gritty, alternative aesthetic but rarely engage with the deeper cultural movements or the people that give Berlin its unique character. Honestly, it pisses me off sometimes because it feels like we’ve lost the reason why we started doing this in the first place. It’s the difference between truly honouring a cultural legacy and merely commodifying it for profit and a short-term trend.
Think about it, the majority of people see influencers as aspirational yet relatable. That balance makes products feel more attainable without losing their allure. It’s genius marketing really. And when done well, it can also highlight authentic voices and movements. But when it’s surface-level it misses the point entirely.
Of course, a lot of trendsetting fashion comes out of places like Harlem—culturally rich, often working-class neighbourhoods that eventually shape what becomes mainstream. I’ve written about something similar with East London and streetwear in one of my previous newsletters. These spaces are where creativity thrives, where cultural influences collide and where authenticity feels deeply rooted.
What I love about where we are today is how fashion is embracing these blends of high-end and casual fits. It’s a reflection of individuality, intention and self-expression. In NYC, especially, I feel like people aren’t just throwing on clothes—they’re wearing them with purpose, using them to make a statement. It’s fashion with personality, if that makes sense and I love that.
When I was in Harlem, I saw this absolutely stunning, statuesque man in a full suede cowboy fit. But it wasn’t like he was heading out to the countryside—it was aesthetic, stylish, and so intentional. I remember thinking, Damn, now this is what you call a fit. It was genuinely inspiring.
Fast forward to March 2024 and I see Beyoncé’s “Cowboy Couture” album cover. I thought, Yep, we’ve been leaning into this cowboy aesthetic for a while now, but now it’s fully mainstream. Seeing it in Harlem, though, felt so unique and fresh at the time, obviously it wasn’t born there but I loved how unapologetic and authentic he was with his style.
Before I went, I’d heard all the stereotypes—“Don’t go above 110th Street; it’s dangerous.” But those warnings couldn’t have been further from my reality. I stayed near the college in a newly gentrified area. The neighbourhood was this vibrant mix of cultures: Dominican food spots, rich university students, and long-time residents of Harlem. My apartment was spacious and full of character, with a big balcony and a decent kitchen, all at an affordable price.
What struck me most was Harlem’s authenticity. It wasn’t trying to fit into a box or follow a trend—it just was. The local bodega and deli downstairs became quick favourites. The coffee was great, the people were doing their own thing and the vibe was unmatched. Harlem doesn’t feel like it’s been overrun by a singular aesthetic or vibe just yet. Instead, it’s this funky, fresh, authentic mix.
And the food? Unforgettable. One night, I ended up at Melba’s, this incredible Southern comfort food spot founded by Harlem native Melba Wilson. Everything about the place felt warm and inviting, from the butternut squash soup to the mac and cheese, collard greens, and braised short ribs. It was a feast—abundant and delicious. The vibe was just as good as the food, with locals chatting and sharing recommendations, making me feel so welcome. It was a reminder of how food can bring people together in the best way.
Another standout was El Kallejón, a tucked-away Mexican spot that transported me straight to Mexico with its flavours and atmosphere. And then there was Patsy’s Pizzeria—a Harlem institution serving simple, delicious pizza that hit the spot every time.
Of course, the nightlife is a story in itself. The jazz clubs were magical, but the cocktail bars and basement spots playing afrobeats, R&B, and hip-hop were just as incredible. There’s an effortless cool to Harlem’s bar scene—less about fitting in and more about creating a vibe. It’s refreshing and so much fun.
Being in a place with such a profound legacy was humbling. It reminded me of the power of community and the importance of standing for something.
Despite gentrification, Harlem retains its essence. Events like Harlem Week celebrate its history while keeping its culture alive and relevant. It’s a neighbourhood that’s always been at the heart of conversations about identity and community in America. Spending time there, even just a week, felt like stepping into a living, breathing story—a place where the past echoes through every street as we celebrate new traditions and new communities coming together.
That’s the thing—when you’re in it and you start digging deep, suddenly it feels so much bigger. It’s the paradox of New York City. On the surface, New York can feel so compact and manageable—it’s such a well-connected city, with neighbourhoods stacked next to each other, laid out on this neat grid. It’s easy to navigate, right? But then, once you actually immerse yourself in the neighbourhoods, once you start uncovering all the layers and walking the streets, suddenly the city feels massive, almost endless. You’re like, whoa, I could spend a whole month here, maybe two and still be finding new things to explore.
So yeah, I’ll say it again: I back Harlem. It’s an amazing place that deserves more love and less judgement. The food, the music, the people, the energy—it’s all there, waiting to be experienced.
The track I’ll leave you with today is Rose in Harlem by Teyana Taylor.
Love,
Rez x
Loved how immersive this piece was Rez 😍 I’m hoping to visit New York one day myself and this has convinced me to explore Harlem alongside Brooklyn now!!